Nant Gwrtheyrn

Hidden gems off the beaten track is what Rarebits is all about. Hunkered down, in a secret valley where soaring cliffs meet the wild Atlantic, Nant Gwrtheyrn is not just a retreat, it is incredibly special place, with an atmosphere of time standing still, and an ancient story carved out of the granite stone. At the foot of Yr Eifl on the Llŷn Peninsula, this dramatic but sheltered corner of North Wales is worth the detour. You can almost hear the quarrymen still singing and Welsh spoken with fierce pride on the wind.

150 years ago, the busy quarries fed the country’s demand for stone, hewn by hand, and shipped by sea, which led to rows of cottages springing up, a stunning chapel and school. But as quickly as it rose, it fell silent, and the last family left in 1959.

In 1978, a product of visionary Carl Clowes, Nant was reborn and now thrives as a cultural centre, and a unique place to stay with a story to tell. The cottages are renovated, right up to date, and the café boasts some carefully sourced Welsh cooking, with a backdrop of epic, chart-topping sea views over the secluded beach. Don’t miss reconnecting with the hardy soles who inhabited this isolated spot for millennia by visiting the evocative Capel Seilo heritage centre.

There is a wide range of accommodation styles and options here, but we loved Caerffili, a dramatically romantic duplex suite, ideal for couples. There’s a sink-into king bed upstairs, soft honeyed tones, handmade oak furniture from the estate forestry, leather sofas, and a handy well-equipped kitchen area. Outside the scent of that fresh Atlantic Sea fret is best enjoyed with a steaming coffee and a copy of The Mabinogion.

If you seek peace, inspiration, taking deep breaths of the freshest sea air, and love to hear the language alive and well, Nant Gwrtheyrn is for the traveller who wants more than a view. This is Wales at its elemental best.